Friday, January 26, 2018

Cosplay 101: Prop Diagrams

Cosplay 101: Prop Diagrams:

Hand drawn diagrams:

When it comes to cosplay, a majority of characters will have a least one small prop. Then there will be other characters that will have medium sized to massive and huge props that needs close to exact accuracy. For a majority of the time, props shows us compassion when it comes to creating them. 

In terms of props, they're not difficult when it comes to reference searching. Props always seems to give us cosplayers a little relief by giving us almost every angle or at least gives us an opportunity to guesstimate what the other side of said prop would look like.

For example, in terms of swords, staffs, and wands, it's most likely safe to say is if one side looks a certain way, that the other side would be the exact same way:


When it comes to creating props, much less researching props, there will be times where the reference pictures are okay and decent, but there's no reference picture of said prop straight on so you would be able to study the dimensions to determine how long it is (the length), how wide it is (the width), and lastly how thick it is (the depth). 

A great example would be Sergeant Calhoun's (from Wreck It Ralph) big gun would fall in this category. So, no matter how much you research, there's no absolute guide of what it looks like when it's viewed straight on. So, with that said, with my Sergeant Calhoun cosplay, I literally had to hand draw a diagram from a reference picture (where it was being held in the air) and had to do what I could just to get an idea of what if would look like if it was viewed straight on. It wasn't too bad to do, but this is the end result that I got in terms of hand drawing a diagram:

It's not the best in the world, but it's going to help any and all future Sergeant Calhoun cosplayers. 

There will be times where some props are going to be this difficult to reference. So, it's best to at least hand draw a diagram of the said prop or truly go by the original reference pictures as best as you can just to make sure that the details are right. It won't be easy, but sometimes you have to take drastic measures to make sure of the accuracy is correct. 

It's not easy creating cosplays and/or the props sometimes; however, in the end and when everything is said and done, it'll be worth you're while when it's created and done correctly. 

Thanks for your time and good luck to you all^_^

Wednesday, February 4, 2015

Other Basic Prop Tutorials

Hey guys! For this post here, it's all about basic and helpful tutorials that are just non specific tutorials. For example, instead of saying it's "Kenshin's from Rurouni Kenshin Samurai Sword", it'll be "Basic Samurai Sword"

Now, I know people enjoy the specific prop tutorials, but some characters just have a basic prop that's just needs to be painted a certain design. Nothing special, but it helps alot of just  not relying on "So and so's" sword tutorial or "Such and such's" gun tutorial and just having to tweek it here and there. It's just simple and straight to the point. It also may be cheaper if you're the one who happens to be on a major budget for alot of things.

So without further adew, please enjoy these basic and non specific character prop tutorials.

Basic Sword Tutorial:

Just as the title says. It's nothing more than just a very simple way of creating a basic sword to what you specially need it to look like. Not only that, you don't even have to break the bank too much here. Anyway, pleaese enjoy and I hope this helps^^

Custom Fangs Tutorial:

Hey guys! Here's a great tutorial on how to create your own custom fangs without worrying about if the fangs will fit your mouth or not. Even though it more or less advertises for vampire type of fangs, but all in all, it can be any type of fangs that you need. I'll put it to you this way. I'll be doing Halloween Town Sora from KH2 (Kingdom Hearts 2) this year for Halloween. When it's time to do his fangs, I'll be using this tutorial to create them.

It's a great tutorial for any creature that has fangs. As long as follow the tutoiral correctly, of course with your own personal touches, your fangs are going to be awesome. The fangs you create are going to be way better than cheap retail store!

Let's just say that Halloween got a series upgrade with this tutorial.

Please enjoy and I hope this helps^o^

Monday, May 5, 2014

Anime Footwear Tutorial

How To Create Anime Footwear:

Okay guys! Here's something that EVERYONE can use. I'm talking about the infamous footwear of anime that all cosplayers alike seem to struggle with. I mean, you know when you have those types of cosplays that you just can't find the replica of? How about searching hours upon hours for a half way decent commissioner for the right price? Well your worries are finally over because I'm going to list here ALL footwear, or anime/video game shoe, tutorials that you can easily follow and create yourself.

If they're a particular anime series, then I'll list them as such, like for example, if I see a Final Fantasy shoe tutorial, then I'll list here and in the Final Fantasy section of the blog. For the time being, what I'm going to list here is for ANY type of anime/video game boot tutorial. I promise you, I used this for my Songstress Yuna from Final Fantasy X-2 and they turned out great!

I give credit to harmoniccosplay of deviantArt and harmonyisarine of (same person, but different username in social media)

I grantee you my friends, you won't be disappointed^_^

Painting Boots Tutorial:

Hey guys! I found something that would work for all cosplayers. Say for example, that you don't want to go through the hassel with a commissioner (much less have the money for one) and you also are very timid of creating your own pair of boots. What if I tell you that you can very easily paint a pair of boots without having to breake you pocket book cost wise?

This method that I found, has worked wonders for me and will very much do the same for you. If you follow the instructions correctly, then this will definately be a penny saver.

I give credit to fechan on She's the one that came up with this method:

The only friendly warning I can give you is that all results will vary due to what the indivdual cosplayer is trying to achieve. You may have to add more of one ingredient over another just because of what you, the indivdual cosplayer is trying to get from a pair of boots.

Allow me to give you my personal before and after pictures of a pair of boots that I got over at Goodwill and transformed them into a pair of Gun Mage Yuna from FFX-2 boots.


Mind you, the masking tape on the boot is my doing due to mapping out of what I need in terms of design.


So this is the overall end result by using this method. All I needed to do is just add the trim on the top and they were ready for my local anime convention.

Now, from my personal experience with the before and after pictures, maybe this will help you get an idea of how to handle your pair of boots for your character.

Anyway, I hope this helps^_^

Basic Cosplay Tutorial: Nude Shoes

This tutorial is for those cosplayers that are cosplaying characters that are barefooted that want to attend a convention. As we all know that the convention doesn't allow bare feet to rome. So with that said, this tutorial helps that person not only where shoes without getting in trouble, but it also helps the cosplayer stay in character without having to compromise the character for the sake of rule breaking. Anyway, I hope this helps out. Steps 1-4 Steps 5-8

Friday, August 12, 2011

Final Fantasy Cosplay Tutorials

This is where ALL of the Final Fantasy tutorials will be. Whether I created them or I find them from the internet, all of your Final Fantasy needs will be met right here. From your props and accessories to your armor and wigs, it'll all be right here.
I created this FFX-2 Gunner Yuna Belt and Pouch Tutorials so you won't have to worry about a commissioner: Here's the links:
FFX-2 Theif Rikku Cosplay:
This is for all future FFX-2 Thief Rikku cosplayers. All but 1 are by this ashtonXtaylor: skirt accessories top sleeves hair style (if you choose to do your own hair)

This 1 actually is by someone else, but this is for if you choose to use a wig. Give credit to chelsea havoc: wig

Video: Steps 1-3 Steps 4-6 Steps 7-8 Step 9 parts 1-3 Step 9 part 4- Step 10
Photo Slideshow:

Coming Soon! Please be paitent! ^^
Video: Step 1-4 Step 5-7 (2) Step 7 (2)-10

Photo Slideshow:

Gunner Yuna/Paine Gun Tutorial:

Give credit to Kukkii-san from There's a four step tutoiral that works for both Gunner Yuna and Paine guns. Here you go: 1) (Step 2) (Step 3) (Step 4) I hope this helps because I know this did!

My FFX-2 Gunner Yuna Gun Tutorial:

Now, I've provided my own Gunner Yuna from FFX-2 gun tutorial. If you wish to use this instead of the one I gave you, then here's the pattern for the gun. I was going to use the tutorial from Kukkii-san before, but I the modeling clay alone with paper mache worked just as well. Here's the gun pattern if you wish to use my tutorial instead:

I'm going to provide you the video and the photo versions of this same tutorial.

Video: Steps 1-2 Steps 3-5


Coming Soon, so please be patient^^;

FFX Summoner Yuna/ FFX-2 White Mage Yuna Staff Tutorial:

Give credit to Kukkii-san from for this tutorial. This is perfect for all of you soon-to-be FFX Summoner Yunas and FFX-2 White Mage Yunas. This is totally going to help me because I wouldn't know where to start. Anyway, here it is^_^

FFX-2 Lenne/Songstress Yuna Microphone (w/stand-optional):

Hey everyone. Here's the pattern for all of you future Lenne and Songstress Yuna's from FFX-2 out there. This is the pattern that I created so you can create your own replica of the microphone that they use in the game. You don't have to add the stand with Yuna's if you don't want to, but I did with my Songstress Yuna cosplay, just give it a little more edge since she does actually uses the outfit in battle as well. Anyway, here you go:

 Okay guys! Here's the actual tutorial for this. It took awhile, but I think this'll help all future Lenne's/Songstress Yuna's: Part 1 Part 2

Please hang tight! There'll be more to come soon^_^

FFX-2 Gun Mage Yuna Gun Cosplay Tutorial:

Hey guys! Here's another tutorial for you. This is the Gun Mage dressphere's prop, the gun. Not only that, I've also provided the pattern for the gun itself and then the 2 designs that the gun has. Gun Mage Gun Tutorial

Gun Mage Gun Pattern:

Gun Mage Gun Design (ring):

Gun Mage Gun Design (side 1):

Gun Mage Gun Design (side 2):

One design on the ring part and then the design on the white strips of the gun. Just to let you know, the pattern on the white strip of the gun, are the same on each side. The only difference is the other side is reversed. Not to worry, I've got that part covered for you. So all you have to do is just copy it onto your own gun:

Anyway, I hope this helps^^

FFX Auron/FFX-2 Samurai Yuna Sword Tutorial

Hey guys! Sorry it's been awhile since I posted anymore totally awesome tutorials, whether it's my own creations or other people's. So, I got a tutorial that very beneficial to a future FFX Auron cosplayer AND a Samurai Yuna from FFX-2 cosplayer. 

So, say a guy wants to be Auron from FFX, but wants to use a different sword from his typical Kanata. Also, say a    future Yuna from FFX-2 cosplayer is getting ready to do her Samurai dressphere and doesn't know where to begin on how to create the sword.

Well guys! The worries are over because not only am I doing a Samurai Yuna cosplay myself, but I also have this totally awesome tutorial on how to create it. What I'm doing is here is I'm providing you with some necessary template and reference guide when it's time for you to create your sword. Here's the design guideline and spoke template here:

This is the spoke design. What you see on the far left is the blade design of the sword. DO NOT CUT IT OUT!!!!!! It's only a reference guide when you draw out your blade for your sword. 

This is a guideline when it's time to map out the design at the bottom of the blade. The second design on the left is you cut it out and then you use it to trace the design at the top of the bottom part of the sword blade (See a full sword reference picture for better clarification) 

Here's the video tutorials I provided for you as promised. Just so you'll know, it's a 2 part video tutorial and this tutorial is a 12 step tutorial. Make sure you look at both so you can finish properly. I hope this helps and good luck^^ : Steps 1-5 Steps 6-12

Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Hetalia Axis Powers Tutorials!!!!

Hi everyone! This will be the place for all of your Hetalia Axis Powers cosplay needs if you need help or need a tutorial to go by. It's for patterns, wigs, accessories, and anything that you need for your Hetalia cosplay to come out awsome. If you are looking for somthing in particular, like shoes or weapons, just say so and I'll do my best to post it here. Please enjoy^^

Patterns: Alright future Hetalia Axis Powers cosplayers! This will totally save you a huge headache for your future Hetalia Axis Powers cosplays. Thanks to Chibi Baka Zaru on, they provided a link to where you have pattern tutorials and tutorials for those extremly hard-to-find patterns. Not only that, it also gives pattern ideas, which can save you a lot of stress when creating these cosplays. I know I'm going to enjoy them as much as the next Hetalia cosplayers. Give credit to acostory, also on, for the actual tutorials. Enjoy, I know I will^^

Britain's/England's Eyebrows: Okay, this is a very cool tutorial on how to do Britain's/England's Eyebrows. Come to think of it, I wouldn't know how to do it either O_O. Anyway, give credit to Purplefluffychainsaw on Youtube for the tutorial and video. Here's the Youtube link:

America's Glasses: For those of you that are planning or ARE doing America, here's an awsome tutorial on how to do his glasses. Very cool^^ Give credit to MissInterpretCosplay on Youtube for the tutorial video. Here's the Youtube link:

Purssia's Bird: I had to ask permission from KinuDo on Youtube for this video. Now since that's taken care of, this is a tutorial on how to create Purssia's bird. Give credit to KinuDo on Youtube for the video tutorial. Here's the Youtube link:

Japan's Wig: For those of you who are doing a Japan cosplay, here's my very first video tutorial of me giving you step by step on how to style Japan's hairstyle. Here's the links:

Please understand that this was my very first video tutorial. I've just got through with creating the photo version of this exact same tutorial. The reason for this is just in case if I wasn't clear or someone needed a better demenstration. Here's the link for the photo version:

Britain's/England's Flying Mint Bunny: I finally got around to doing Britain's/England's Flying Mint Bunny. Here's the pattern for him:

Here's the video and photo version of the tutorial.

Video: Steps 1-2 Steps 3-9

Well, I hope this helps you in your Britain/England cosplay^_^

Friday, November 26, 2010

How-to Tutorial: Maka Albern from Soul Eater Scythe

Okay, this tutorial is for the girls that are cosplaying Maka Albern from Soul Eater. I was going to be her for Halloween this year; however, she never made the deadline. So, I'm going to show you how to make her scythe. For now, I don't have any step-by-step image tutorials, but I WILL create them. Don't worry. This is for those girls that are 5'5". Other size girls must get a good reference picture of Maka without her scythe and start doing some math. Alright, a way we go XD


Cardboard (big and small)
Craft Foam (big sheets: Red, Black, and White)
1/2" PVC pipe (will come in 10 ft long so be prepared)
1 1/4" PVC pipe (this will come in shorter feet, try finding the shorter feet first! It's less of a headace to deal with ^_^)
Scupty Clay (any color! You'll see -_-; )
Medium masking tape
Hot Glue gun (with hot glue sticks of course)
Metalic Silver Spray Paint
Red and Black Paint (not spray paint, regular tube paint)


Step #1: Take the 10 ft 1/2" pipe and cut it to 5 1/2 ft with PVC pipe cutters.(Tip: ALWAYS measure more than once. It won't hurt you if you measure 5 times. Just make sure that the left over pipe is 55". Mark it first just case of accidents! Once you cut, it's done! You CAN'T take it back! After marking, cut where that mark is! ) So you're practically nearly cutting the 10 ft pipe in half! After the 5 1/2" cut out, take it and set it to the side because this is your ultimate pole of the scythe. The other pipe should be 55" (If not, then try 5 ft! )

Step #2: Once you cut the 1/2" pipe to 5 1/2", take it into your work station or where ever you're creating this. Next, take the 1 1/4" PVC pipe and cut it 13". This is will be the top of the scythe. You're going to have to use some sort of electric saw that can cut PVC pipe or use the PVC pipe cutters, but you'll have to have major pressure by using your feet to add that pressure, like stepping on it, only do it slowly and a little at a time.

When the 1 1/4" is cut to 13", take a good chunk of Sculpty Clay, and stuff it into the ends of BOTH pipes. The Sculpty Clay is to prevent having any hollowness and also will provide some support for the pole and the top part. Make the ends smooth by taking some pieces of the Sculpty Clay away from the edges. In other words, don't cover up the edges of the pipes.

Next, some white craft foam and cut out 3 circles . Make sure that they are the same size as the 1/2" pipe and the 1 1/4" pipe. 1 will be for the 1/2" pipe and the other 2 will be for the 1 1/4" pipe. Make sure that they fit on both of the ends the pipes and then take the hot glue and glue them like you're gluing a cap; HOWEVER, leave the bottom of the 1 1/4" pipe and leave the top of the 1/2" pipe open! VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!

Step #3: Now, this is the precision part, so be ready! Take the 1/2" PVC pipe and place right in the middle of the bottom of the 1 1/4" PVC pipe. PUSH IT AND ADD SOME PRESSURE!!!! Not too much because the more you push, the smaller the scythe will become and we DON'T want that. This should make a nice little dint or mark inside the bottom of the 1 1/4" PVC pipe's Sculpty Clay. When this happens, it will give it a firm grip and hold on the 1/2" pole.

If by any chance that you vered the pole to the left or right and not the center, it will become top heavy and will lean over or backward when we add the blade. So, pull it out and keep trying to place in the center. Make sure that it has that firm grip and hold.

When you have a firm grip and hold, take the second 1 1/4" pipe circle, made from craft foam, cut out the shape of the 1/2" pipe end in the center, and then cut one of the sides, making a slit, to the cut out center. Once cut out, you then place it where the 1/2" pipe is and you fit the circle of the 1 1/4" pipe bottom. Then, you take the hot glue and gently take the edges of the craft foam circle and glue it to the edges of the pipe bottom. Don't worry about the slit that you created, that can be easily covered up with the masking tape. You may go on and do so now if you wish. Now the both bottoms are now sealed! ^_^

Step #4: Next, look at your reference and start measuring! Measure where the blade should be! When I looked, it seemed that the blade's edge had gaps in between, meaning that the blade itself was in the center. So, measure to about 2 3/4" to 3" to the center of the 1 1/4" pipe and mark it. This will help you for when you create the beginning edge of the blade itself, like that attachment part, persue. Once that happens, then measure the center part from mark to mark. When you have your measurements, then go to the big cardboard. Make sure that there are 2 big cardboards on top of one other because it will appear like it's an actual blade.
Here, draw the attachment part first and make sure that measurement is correct, which is pretty much a straight or a some what straight line ^^;. Afterwards, take your reference picture and copy close or exactly as possible to the shape seen (no thicker, no thinner, than what the reference shows!) Okay, the blade itself measures approximately 44" in length. So, make sure that it's 44" in length, not 12", not 24", not even 20 1/2"! It must be 44" in length. Make sure that both pieces of big cardboard are all one piece so it won't be as flimsy (it might be a little flimsy, not it won't be badly flimsy!)

Once drawn out, take either scissors or a box cutter because that works just as well, and cut out the shape of the blade. When both of the the blade shapes are cut out, make sure that they are on top of one other facing the same direction. Next, while they're still placed on top of one another. hot glue them together a section at a time on the edges. Now, since that is completed, you now have a full blade.

Step #5: Since the blade is now complete, you then turn your attention to the piece on the other side of the blade. Again, look at your reference and measure. I've measured around 8" down (in length) and at least 2 3/4" to 3" across (in width). I say this because from top to bottom, it has cruves and the very tip of each end is important, so just because it has a sharp curve, doesn't mean you should ignore the very bottom (always remember that^_^)

Once measured, draw it out on some cardboard and make sure that it appears close or exactly like the shape for the back of the blade. Draw 3 small holes in the center of and leave some gaps. Again, go by your reference picture. Like your blade, you must have 2 cardboards on top of each other so it will appear accerate. Next, cut out the shape and the holes in the center. Afterwards, also like the blade, hot glue the edges of the back piece together to each other.

Step #6: Take BOTH your blade and the back piece and use masking tape on the tops and bottoms. DO NOT TAPE THE ATTACHMENTS!!!!!!! Only tape the tops, bottoms, tips, and edges. For your back piece, also tape the inside of the holes. Also for the back piece, take white craft foam and cut 2 more of the same shape as the cardboard and make the same holes as well. Try to be neat as you possibly can! These will help you when it's time to paint. Take those 2 and hot glue them to the front and back sides of the back piece.

Now, take the back piece and place it on the center (behind where the blade itself will be) and make 2 marks. This will help show you where to hot glue the back piece.

Step #7: Now, you take your blade piece and put a good amount of hot glue where the non-tape (attachment) place is. Where the marks are located for the blade part of the scythe, you CAREFULLY place the blade in between where the marks are. In other words, it MUST be in the center of the 1 1/4" pipe! Once you place the hot glued area on the object, you CANNOT take it off! If it's there, it's there, you can't change it (that's for ANY project you do with hot glue, so always remember that too ^_^).
You do the exact same thing with the back piece and then where you marked in the back of the scythe, put a good amount of hot glue on the non-taped (attachment) side. Then carefully place in between where each mark is. In other words, it'll be in the center right behind where the blade will be. Here, for both the blade and the back piece, you take the masking tape and cover the hot glue areas so it won't show, on both the front and the back.

Step #8: Okay future Maka cosplayers, almost there! Since the scythe itself is almost completed, now it's time for the paint. What you do is first off, make sure you take this outside due to the chemicals that spray paint contains. Once you're outside away from people and pets harm's way, you take some newspapaer and cover your blade and make sure the masking tape of the blade isn't showing either, except the back piece of course^_^

Next, you take your spray paint and then go up and down the pole area and you spray the back piece completely as well. This may need 1 or 2 coats of paint. Cover the pole on both sides evenly and be careful about drips. If any drips, just sand it off and go over it again, but carefully. Let this dry over night or possibly 2 nights just to get rid of the chemical smell. If you got a little silver metalic paint on the blade, then it's okay! It's getting ready to be fixed soon^_~
Step #9: Now, it's time for the blade to be decorated. Get your red and black craft foam ready! For the triangle patterns, measure out the each triangle because there are 1 for each side, so you need 2 of each size that is listed here:
Red Triangles:

2 9 12/16"
2 5 9/16"
2 5"
2 3 5/16"
2 3 10/16"
2 2 1/2" x 3 2/16"
2 3" x 6 3/16"

Remember, there's only 1 for each side (7 for each side) and they will be facing each other back to back on both sides. To make it easier, start from the front side. For the red triangles, first make sure that you traced them on the cardboard blade in the order given and also make sure that they are just barely touching each other at the bottom ends. Then, hot glue and place them in this order:

1 9 12/16" (biggest, at where the attachment is)
1 5 9/16" (second, barely touching the first one)
1 5" (third)
1 3 5/16" (fouth)
1 3 10/16" (fifth. I know, it's strange, you'll see-_-)
1 2 1/2" x 3 2/16" (sixth. It's kinda starting to take the bottom edge of the blade's form).
1 3" x 6 3/16" (very last one. It will be the longest and make sure the longest side is towards the tip of the end of the blade).

Repeat this for the other side. These triangles will be forming the edges of the blade. Now, for the black parts, which is the top, have some tracing paper ready and start tracing where the red triangles are. Instead of using the red triangles, you're using the cardboard area for the blade. So, make sure that when you cut, that you're making the black pieces of the blade fit the edges EXACTLY like the edges of the red triangles. When that is finished, then hot glue the black pieces so it will fit each other like a puzzle. Repeat this for the back side.

Once that is complete, then you take the masking tape and whatever cut edges, which in this case is going to be the black pieces, that you tape them up, but be careful NOT to hit the red triangles. Then you take the black tube paint and go over it a couple of times and then you paint the top edge of the scythe all the way down to the tip where the black parts are. When you're done with that, then take the red tubed paint and paint the very bottom edge underneath the blade all the way down to the tip of it. Let this dry over night or for a couple of nights. Repeat this for the other side.

Because the different black colors are so obvious, you need to go over the black part of the scythe in the tubed paint so it will be even. Go over it gently and smoothly.

Now, if for some reason that you have gaps in between the red triangles and the black pieces, take the masking tape and cover them up. Take the tubed paint and cover it carefully by making the red triangle(s) with the paint. This will take time, but it's worth it.

Step #10: Alright, we're coming to the final touches. Now, look at your reference picture and study how big each section of the eye is. Remember, it has 2 (one for either side). So, you measure the distance between the top and also the bottom. Right underneath the bottom part of the blade (red triangle pattern), there's a black triangle pattern of its own. So, take a minute and study both the eye and the black triangle pattern underneath the blade.
Once you have thoroughly studied these aspects, take some more red, black, and white craft foam and start making these shapes. Again, make sure the measurements and sizes are correct. Remember to make 2 sets of eyes (one for either side). The eyes are going to be facing back to back against each other. Make sure the black triangle pattern is right where the bottom edge (where attachment is) of the blade. In other words, make it touch the edge of the bottom part of the blade. This pattern is a strip, not single pieces.

When you have 2 sets of eyes ready, make sure you have studied the measurments where the placement of each eye should be. By looking at your reference, it appears to be in the middle of where the blade is and where the back piece is on the 1 1/4" pipe. If you have to make a mark to you place better, that's fine, but try to make a very small but noticable mark so you can cover your mark with the eye. Make sure all of the eye pieces are now one complete eye. All you have to do now is carefully hot glue and place each eye on the mark you made. The mark MUST be covered by the eye. Once each eye is correctly hot glued and placed, just throughly examine it and fix anything that need touch ups.

I finally got around to doing the visual part of the tutorial. This is basically if anyone is confused by the written portion of it. It's not the best drawn out, but it still helps for reference of what you're doing. I strongly suggest you print out BOTH the visual and the written portion of the tutorial because some important information in the written portion of the tutorial is NOT in the visual portion and also it helps you to follow along as you go through step-by-step throughout the process of making your Maka Scythe. Also, print of the photo picture of the finished scythe because that's a more accurate result than the hand drawn one^^;

This alone should have roughly takin' you at least 5-6 hours, not including the painting!!! So, this was just as a job for me then it was me giving it to you. Here's mine and the reason why the pole is kind of bending is because of I kept hitting either the left or the right side when I was trying to put the 1/2" PVC pipe in the middle so it could grab a firm grip and hold. All in all, this should be what the finishing product should look like. HERE'S YOUR MAKA ALBERN FROM SOUL EATER SCYTHE!!!!!!! ENJOY!!!!!