Friday, November 26, 2010

How-to Tutorial: Maka Albern from Soul Eater Scythe

Okay, this tutorial is for the girls that are cosplaying Maka Albern from Soul Eater. I was going to be her for Halloween this year; however, she never made the deadline. So, I'm going to show you how to make her scythe. For now, I don't have any step-by-step image tutorials, but I WILL create them. Don't worry. This is for those girls that are 5'5". Other size girls must get a good reference picture of Maka without her scythe and start doing some math. Alright, a way we go XD


Cardboard (big and small)
Craft Foam (big sheets: Red, Black, and White)
1/2" PVC pipe (will come in 10 ft long so be prepared)
1 1/4" PVC pipe (this will come in shorter feet, try finding the shorter feet first! It's less of a headace to deal with ^_^)
Scupty Clay (any color! You'll see -_-; )
Medium masking tape
Hot Glue gun (with hot glue sticks of course)
Metalic Silver Spray Paint
Red and Black Paint (not spray paint, regular tube paint)


Step #1: Take the 10 ft 1/2" pipe and cut it to 5 1/2 ft with PVC pipe cutters.(Tip: ALWAYS measure more than once. It won't hurt you if you measure 5 times. Just make sure that the left over pipe is 55". Mark it first just case of accidents! Once you cut, it's done! You CAN'T take it back! After marking, cut where that mark is! ) So you're practically nearly cutting the 10 ft pipe in half! After the 5 1/2" cut out, take it and set it to the side because this is your ultimate pole of the scythe. The other pipe should be 55" (If not, then try 5 ft! )

Step #2: Once you cut the 1/2" pipe to 5 1/2", take it into your work station or where ever you're creating this. Next, take the 1 1/4" PVC pipe and cut it 13". This is will be the top of the scythe. You're going to have to use some sort of electric saw that can cut PVC pipe or use the PVC pipe cutters, but you'll have to have major pressure by using your feet to add that pressure, like stepping on it, only do it slowly and a little at a time.

When the 1 1/4" is cut to 13", take a good chunk of Sculpty Clay, and stuff it into the ends of BOTH pipes. The Sculpty Clay is to prevent having any hollowness and also will provide some support for the pole and the top part. Make the ends smooth by taking some pieces of the Sculpty Clay away from the edges. In other words, don't cover up the edges of the pipes.

Next, some white craft foam and cut out 3 circles . Make sure that they are the same size as the 1/2" pipe and the 1 1/4" pipe. 1 will be for the 1/2" pipe and the other 2 will be for the 1 1/4" pipe. Make sure that they fit on both of the ends the pipes and then take the hot glue and glue them like you're gluing a cap; HOWEVER, leave the bottom of the 1 1/4" pipe and leave the top of the 1/2" pipe open! VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!

Step #3: Now, this is the precision part, so be ready! Take the 1/2" PVC pipe and place right in the middle of the bottom of the 1 1/4" PVC pipe. PUSH IT AND ADD SOME PRESSURE!!!! Not too much because the more you push, the smaller the scythe will become and we DON'T want that. This should make a nice little dint or mark inside the bottom of the 1 1/4" PVC pipe's Sculpty Clay. When this happens, it will give it a firm grip and hold on the 1/2" pole.

If by any chance that you vered the pole to the left or right and not the center, it will become top heavy and will lean over or backward when we add the blade. So, pull it out and keep trying to place in the center. Make sure that it has that firm grip and hold.

When you have a firm grip and hold, take the second 1 1/4" pipe circle, made from craft foam, cut out the shape of the 1/2" pipe end in the center, and then cut one of the sides, making a slit, to the cut out center. Once cut out, you then place it where the 1/2" pipe is and you fit the circle of the 1 1/4" pipe bottom. Then, you take the hot glue and gently take the edges of the craft foam circle and glue it to the edges of the pipe bottom. Don't worry about the slit that you created, that can be easily covered up with the masking tape. You may go on and do so now if you wish. Now the both bottoms are now sealed! ^_^

Step #4: Next, look at your reference and start measuring! Measure where the blade should be! When I looked, it seemed that the blade's edge had gaps in between, meaning that the blade itself was in the center. So, measure to about 2 3/4" to 3" to the center of the 1 1/4" pipe and mark it. This will help you for when you create the beginning edge of the blade itself, like that attachment part, persue. Once that happens, then measure the center part from mark to mark. When you have your measurements, then go to the big cardboard. Make sure that there are 2 big cardboards on top of one other because it will appear like it's an actual blade.
Here, draw the attachment part first and make sure that measurement is correct, which is pretty much a straight or a some what straight line ^^;. Afterwards, take your reference picture and copy close or exactly as possible to the shape seen (no thicker, no thinner, than what the reference shows!) Okay, the blade itself measures approximately 44" in length. So, make sure that it's 44" in length, not 12", not 24", not even 20 1/2"! It must be 44" in length. Make sure that both pieces of big cardboard are all one piece so it won't be as flimsy (it might be a little flimsy, not it won't be badly flimsy!)

Once drawn out, take either scissors or a box cutter because that works just as well, and cut out the shape of the blade. When both of the the blade shapes are cut out, make sure that they are on top of one other facing the same direction. Next, while they're still placed on top of one another. hot glue them together a section at a time on the edges. Now, since that is completed, you now have a full blade.

Step #5: Since the blade is now complete, you then turn your attention to the piece on the other side of the blade. Again, look at your reference and measure. I've measured around 8" down (in length) and at least 2 3/4" to 3" across (in width). I say this because from top to bottom, it has cruves and the very tip of each end is important, so just because it has a sharp curve, doesn't mean you should ignore the very bottom (always remember that^_^)

Once measured, draw it out on some cardboard and make sure that it appears close or exactly like the shape for the back of the blade. Draw 3 small holes in the center of and leave some gaps. Again, go by your reference picture. Like your blade, you must have 2 cardboards on top of each other so it will appear accerate. Next, cut out the shape and the holes in the center. Afterwards, also like the blade, hot glue the edges of the back piece together to each other.

Step #6: Take BOTH your blade and the back piece and use masking tape on the tops and bottoms. DO NOT TAPE THE ATTACHMENTS!!!!!!! Only tape the tops, bottoms, tips, and edges. For your back piece, also tape the inside of the holes. Also for the back piece, take white craft foam and cut 2 more of the same shape as the cardboard and make the same holes as well. Try to be neat as you possibly can! These will help you when it's time to paint. Take those 2 and hot glue them to the front and back sides of the back piece.

Now, take the back piece and place it on the center (behind where the blade itself will be) and make 2 marks. This will help show you where to hot glue the back piece.

Step #7: Now, you take your blade piece and put a good amount of hot glue where the non-tape (attachment) place is. Where the marks are located for the blade part of the scythe, you CAREFULLY place the blade in between where the marks are. In other words, it MUST be in the center of the 1 1/4" pipe! Once you place the hot glued area on the object, you CANNOT take it off! If it's there, it's there, you can't change it (that's for ANY project you do with hot glue, so always remember that too ^_^).
You do the exact same thing with the back piece and then where you marked in the back of the scythe, put a good amount of hot glue on the non-taped (attachment) side. Then carefully place in between where each mark is. In other words, it'll be in the center right behind where the blade will be. Here, for both the blade and the back piece, you take the masking tape and cover the hot glue areas so it won't show, on both the front and the back.

Step #8: Okay future Maka cosplayers, almost there! Since the scythe itself is almost completed, now it's time for the paint. What you do is first off, make sure you take this outside due to the chemicals that spray paint contains. Once you're outside away from people and pets harm's way, you take some newspapaer and cover your blade and make sure the masking tape of the blade isn't showing either, except the back piece of course^_^

Next, you take your spray paint and then go up and down the pole area and you spray the back piece completely as well. This may need 1 or 2 coats of paint. Cover the pole on both sides evenly and be careful about drips. If any drips, just sand it off and go over it again, but carefully. Let this dry over night or possibly 2 nights just to get rid of the chemical smell. If you got a little silver metalic paint on the blade, then it's okay! It's getting ready to be fixed soon^_~
Step #9: Now, it's time for the blade to be decorated. Get your red and black craft foam ready! For the triangle patterns, measure out the each triangle because there are 1 for each side, so you need 2 of each size that is listed here:
Red Triangles:

2 9 12/16"
2 5 9/16"
2 5"
2 3 5/16"
2 3 10/16"
2 2 1/2" x 3 2/16"
2 3" x 6 3/16"

Remember, there's only 1 for each side (7 for each side) and they will be facing each other back to back on both sides. To make it easier, start from the front side. For the red triangles, first make sure that you traced them on the cardboard blade in the order given and also make sure that they are just barely touching each other at the bottom ends. Then, hot glue and place them in this order:

1 9 12/16" (biggest, at where the attachment is)
1 5 9/16" (second, barely touching the first one)
1 5" (third)
1 3 5/16" (fouth)
1 3 10/16" (fifth. I know, it's strange, you'll see-_-)
1 2 1/2" x 3 2/16" (sixth. It's kinda starting to take the bottom edge of the blade's form).
1 3" x 6 3/16" (very last one. It will be the longest and make sure the longest side is towards the tip of the end of the blade).

Repeat this for the other side. These triangles will be forming the edges of the blade. Now, for the black parts, which is the top, have some tracing paper ready and start tracing where the red triangles are. Instead of using the red triangles, you're using the cardboard area for the blade. So, make sure that when you cut, that you're making the black pieces of the blade fit the edges EXACTLY like the edges of the red triangles. When that is finished, then hot glue the black pieces so it will fit each other like a puzzle. Repeat this for the back side.

Once that is complete, then you take the masking tape and whatever cut edges, which in this case is going to be the black pieces, that you tape them up, but be careful NOT to hit the red triangles. Then you take the black tube paint and go over it a couple of times and then you paint the top edge of the scythe all the way down to the tip where the black parts are. When you're done with that, then take the red tubed paint and paint the very bottom edge underneath the blade all the way down to the tip of it. Let this dry over night or for a couple of nights. Repeat this for the other side.

Because the different black colors are so obvious, you need to go over the black part of the scythe in the tubed paint so it will be even. Go over it gently and smoothly.

Now, if for some reason that you have gaps in between the red triangles and the black pieces, take the masking tape and cover them up. Take the tubed paint and cover it carefully by making the red triangle(s) with the paint. This will take time, but it's worth it.

Step #10: Alright, we're coming to the final touches. Now, look at your reference picture and study how big each section of the eye is. Remember, it has 2 (one for either side). So, you measure the distance between the top and also the bottom. Right underneath the bottom part of the blade (red triangle pattern), there's a black triangle pattern of its own. So, take a minute and study both the eye and the black triangle pattern underneath the blade.
Once you have thoroughly studied these aspects, take some more red, black, and white craft foam and start making these shapes. Again, make sure the measurements and sizes are correct. Remember to make 2 sets of eyes (one for either side). The eyes are going to be facing back to back against each other. Make sure the black triangle pattern is right where the bottom edge (where attachment is) of the blade. In other words, make it touch the edge of the bottom part of the blade. This pattern is a strip, not single pieces.

When you have 2 sets of eyes ready, make sure you have studied the measurments where the placement of each eye should be. By looking at your reference, it appears to be in the middle of where the blade is and where the back piece is on the 1 1/4" pipe. If you have to make a mark to you place better, that's fine, but try to make a very small but noticable mark so you can cover your mark with the eye. Make sure all of the eye pieces are now one complete eye. All you have to do now is carefully hot glue and place each eye on the mark you made. The mark MUST be covered by the eye. Once each eye is correctly hot glued and placed, just throughly examine it and fix anything that need touch ups.

I finally got around to doing the visual part of the tutorial. This is basically if anyone is confused by the written portion of it. It's not the best drawn out, but it still helps for reference of what you're doing. I strongly suggest you print out BOTH the visual and the written portion of the tutorial because some important information in the written portion of the tutorial is NOT in the visual portion and also it helps you to follow along as you go through step-by-step throughout the process of making your Maka Scythe. Also, print of the photo picture of the finished scythe because that's a more accurate result than the hand drawn one^^;

This alone should have roughly takin' you at least 5-6 hours, not including the painting!!! So, this was just as a job for me then it was me giving it to you. Here's mine and the reason why the pole is kind of bending is because of I kept hitting either the left or the right side when I was trying to put the 1/2" PVC pipe in the middle so it could grab a firm grip and hold. All in all, this should be what the finishing product should look like. HERE'S YOUR MAKA ALBERN FROM SOUL EATER SCYTHE!!!!!!! ENJOY!!!!!

Sunday, September 26, 2010

Naruto Cospaly Tutorials

Hey guys, if there's any more Narutards out there, I'll post up some How-To Tutorial videos for you if you need any type of assistance on your cosplay. If you're planning to do a Gaara cosplay, here's an awsome and somewhat easy video tutorial on how to create Gaara's Gourd. This is not me, this is just here if you're doing a Gaara cosplay or need to make one for someone that is going to do a Gaara. Anyway, please enjoy^^

There will be more vidoes, I promise, but hang tight for a while until I find more^^

Bleach Cosplay Tutorial:

Okay Bleach fanatics, if you're planning to cosplay a Bleach character, this five step tutorial is going to help you BIG TIME!!!!!! I finally found part four, but for some reason, I also saw part five. From what it looks like, it's a five step tutorial and nothing more. This is not me. I don't do Bleach cosplays, but all in all, this will help you in your process of creating a Bleach cosplay. This is what I have for now, but I'll upload more Bleach characters. I won't upload them all, but I will upload some. Alright, I hope this helps a little. Hamaka Part 1 Hamaka Part 2 Hamaka Part 3 Hamaka Part 4 Hakama Part 5

Okay, a interesting turn of event, it turns out that this was a 5 step tutorial. Enjoy.

UPDATE: Thanks to miccostumes, this person shared a link that they have on other Bleach tutorials for future Bleach cosplayers. It has some wig styling, masks, make up, and other Bleach related tutorials that you will enjoy. Give credit to miccostumes for this link. Thanks miccostumes^^

Please enjoy^^

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Helpful Tips About Advanced Four-Legged Creature and Upright Creature Cosplays!

In this blog, I'm going to show you how to go further in your four-legged cosplays and also show you how these two patterns will make some upright creatures, like Knuckles the Hedgehog, can work wonders for your cosplay! We'll first go into the advanced four-legged creature before the Upright creature cosplays.

Just a friendly warning, you must use these patterns for the creature's main costume or you'll freak out on not knowing how to create a mascot suit with very little to no sewing experience. I'm just helping you out in terms of not panicing. Not only is this going to be fun, but it's also a great way to really improve your skills, so when the time comes to creating the mascot suit, you won't freak out as much. This is only to help you to make your creature cosplays look awsome and also professional if you so choose to enter a cosplay contest at a con^^

If you did not read the first blog about this subject, then I'll give you the patterns. Use the Kwik Sew patterns 2341 (view A) and the pants pattern 3455 (view B). ALWAYS USE THESE PATTERNS FOR YOUR CREATURE COSPLAYS WHETHER IT'S FOUR-LEGGED OR UPRIGHT!!!!!!! Now, the only exception to this would be if you were to cosplay an actual human character like the Aeon Shiva from FFX or Mario from Super Mario Brothers. This is said because they are both human or human-like, so there is no point of using these patterns.



Now, for those of you who haven't read the first blog regarding this subject, a solid type is just basically a creature that is one color all the way around. In this section, it's going to be the same thing, the only difference will be that the creature would have patterns on it. A perfect example would be the Pokemon Umbreon (one of Eevee's evolutions).

Now, look at the reference picture of Umbreon. DON'T PANIC!!!!! He just looks scary to create because of the pattern that he has. Close your eyes, relax, and imagine Umbreon WITHOUT his patterns. Once you pictured Umbreon without his patterns, he's just a solid color type.

Okay, once the leotard and the pants are completed, start studing the paws. For a paw and paw feet tutorial, go to:

This site has an awsome tutorial on paws and paw feet. For more info on how to create the toes, go to the first blog I created on this subject. Now, after the paws and paw feet, start making a solid plush tail. Then create a sturdy cap so it won't come loose. Once the ears have been thourghly studied, create them and sew them onto your cap.

Alright, the main aspects are done, now what we have to do is study the patterns on Umbreon, meaning what shapes are they, what sizes are the shapes, and where to place them. Remember, acceracy is key.


Okay, the solid color types are somewhat easy, but let's try the multi-color types!!! If you decide to try a multi-color type with patterns, YOU MUST PAY ATTENTION THROUGH THE ENTIRE PROCESS OR WILL IT NOT ONLY LOOK AWKWARD AND STRANGE, BUT IT WILL ALSO LOOK UNPROFESSIONAL!!!!!!! The Pokemon Arcanine is a perfect example of what I mean.

Okay, PLEASE DON'T HYPERVINELATE ON ME!!!!! ><; Like we did with the Umbreon picture, just close your eyes, relax, and imagine Arcanine WITHOUT his detailed pattern. Without his patterns, he's just a multi-colored type.

Now, study Arcanine really well for all of his features. Once the leotard and the pants are completed, then we can worry about the ears, paws, paw feet, and tail. With BOTH of these examples, be creative with the construction and see what happens.

We'll worry about the little flowy fur where the feet are later, but right now, the main concern with this example is having accurate pattern designs.


For BOTH examples, before you go to crazy with the patterns, it's always safe to double check with more 360 reference pics and even video and/or video game reference. You don't want to have any sudden mishaps when you think you're on a role of finishing.


For BOTH examples, when you have the pattern pieces ready to be sewn onto the main costume, if your handstitching is really up to par, then pin the pattern design pieces on the main costume and CAREFULLY base them with steady and neat handstitching. Remember to keep this professional as possible!



Now, it's time for the upright creatures, meaning the creatures are walking and running upright like humans. Believe it or not, these Kwik Sew patterns will also work for these types of creatures too^^ Knuckles the Hedgehog is an excellent example.

From looking at Knuckles, you would think that this cosplay can be fixed by a red sweatshirt and red tight jeans with a tail and red dreadlocks, right?

Well... you could do that if you wanted and not have the headache of creating from scratch, but it won't look professional looking and it'll look like that you didn't care. When it comes to cosplay contests, people like the judges, are looking for professionalism in sewing skills and craftsmanship. If you actually tried, then they will give you credit in appearance.

ANYWAY, back on topic! If you're planning on doing a Sonic the Hedgehog group cosplay or just want to do Knuckles here, then go for it! Again, use the patterns 3455 (pants view B) and 2341 (view A).


Here, Knuckles doesn't seem difficult at all! In fact, the only thing you should worry about is if the leotard and stretch pants will fit you. If they fit, then let your creative juices and cleverness fly!


Out from the solid color types and into the multi-colored types. There are some Pokemon that walk and run upright like a human; however, they are still creatures. A great example would be the Pokemon Raichu ( the one that Pikachu evolves into).

I know, you're probably thinking, "what the crap?" right? Actually, yes Raichu because for those extreme dieheart Pokemon fans that remembers the first Season of Pokemon and you saw Lt. Surge's Raichu, it was standing and fighting on two feet.

Now, again, same aspect here, the only difference would be to make the front of the leotard white. Right now, the tail and the ears are not our main concern. The only concern at the moment would be the hands and feet. Study his hands and feet. It's TOTALLY different from the four-legged creatures, huh?

Again, no throw on clothes are allowed in this one either. You could if you wanted something quick and easy with no hassel, but once again, it's not going to look professional. If you're entering in a cosplay contest, people in that category are going to want professionalism in sewing skills and craftsmanship.

Like Knuckles, Raichu doesn't seem difficult at all! In fact, just make sure that the leotard and the stretch pants fits you. If they do, then let the creativity and cleverness fly!

Alrighty then, this should help you ease your mind and hopefully help you for making the Pokemon cosplays and any other creature cosplays more professional looking^^

Helpful Tips About Four-Legged Creature Cosplays

Okay, if you're a Pokemon cosplayer, as in the Pokemon themselves, or if you want to try a four-legged creature, as in Pride Lands Sora from KH2, then listen up! I have a more creative way for your creature cosplays to come out fantastic and professional. Since creating a mascot is more in the expert category of cosplay, I'm going to tell you how to make your four-legged creature cosplays WITHOUT a mascot suit.
ALWAYS USE THE KWIK SEW PATTERNS 3455 AND 2341!!!!! ALWAYS USE VIEW A IN PATTERN 2341 AND PANTS VIEW B IN PATTERN 3455!!!!! These patterns are the main aspect of your four-legged creature cosplay. Now, depending on WHAT you're cosplaying, you may have to get different color fabrics for the front and the back. Here, I will give
out two perfect examples of both types I'm refering to.


The solid color type is basically a four-legged creature that is just one color all the way around. A perfect example of this would be the Pokemon Persian (the one who evolves from Meowth).

Alright, this picture here is a better reference than the second one. See how Persian is only one color? When purchasing the right fabric, all you need is this one color all the way through. So this means, no more color hassals^^

Here, he's a little more yellowish than the previous reference. My strong suggestion is if you see the exact same creature only a different shade of color, get them both and have a strong jugdement because accuracy is key in the cosplay realm. So, for Persian's sake, we'll go with the first picture for the color of his fur.

Now, study the paws and the paw feet that Persian has. As you can see, he has only three toes. YOU MUST GET FUR FOR THIS! (or at least try to^^ If there's no luck for the color or availablity for the fur, then just make sure you have plenty of fabric that you purchased). For creating paws and paw feet, go to:

When you see a hand paw and feet paw tutorial, for Persian's sake, make only three toes and not the full five. So be real clever on your cosplay and get creative while doing so. Since Persian only has three toes on the front and the back, make the glove first. Then separate your pinky finger from the second finger and your index finger from your middle finger. Make your pinky finger an individual toe and put the middle finger and the second finger together to make the middle toe. Lastly, make the index finger a individual toe.

In terms of the feet paws, all you have to do is make three toes. If the creature has claws showing the entire time, then add the claws, it won't hurt it.

Depending if your four-legged creature, some have tails and some doesn't. If your creature DOESN'T have a tail, then don't worry about it. If your creature DOES have a tail, then please listen up! As you should know, there are hundreds and thousands of differnt type tails. In this case, Persian just has a bit of curl tail. No problem. Now, study the length and design of the tail.

Okay, my strong suggestion would be to make it a plush tail, meaning make a pattern of the tail so it can have two sides, sew it, and add stuffing in it!

It's now time for the face aspect.

Looking a Persian's face and head, all he really has is a jewel on his forehead and real 3-D whiskers. Now, for his ears, all I can say is measure the circumfrence of your head (as in the circular motion and not the long ways) and create a sturdy cap, like a swim cap or a wig cap. If you have long hair, then put it up in a pony tail and (if necessary, a bun) make sure that the cap that you created is extremely tight so it will not come loose. Don't make it too tight to where you get actual headaces. Once the cap is created, then study how big, long, and what the shape of his ears are.

As for the whiskers, you have 3 choices:
1. Hand paint them on your face.
2. Create a face mask up to the eyebrows with the whiskers in tact (including his facial features: eyes, nose, mouth, etc.)

3. Create the 3-D whiskers and have some sticky substance, like double stick tape, so can be less painful to put on your cheeks

Now, the multi-colored type is basically a creature that has more than one color. The perfect example would be my most recent cosplay, Pride Lands Sora from KH2

This is the cosplay that I've completed and people LOVED IT^o^ Okay, as you can see, he's a little more detailed than Persian, but don't be scared of it. Now, did you notice what's on top of his head? That's right, he has some sort of a little mane like a lion (well.... technically he is^^) but don't worry, it's not that difficult, but a the same time, it's not easy either.

Here, you look for a dark brown (like earth brown color) and white. The white will be your front because that's his stomach. Make sure that the front neckline of the body suit is white and not brown. Just because you practically don't see it most of the time, doesn't mean that it's not important!

Once the body suit and the stretch pants is completed, then it's time for the paws and the paw feet. Scroll back up for the website and follow those paw and feet paw instructions. The only difference is that you add four toes and not three like Persian. So that gives all four fingers, excluding the thumb, to be independant toes. For the paw feet, all you do here is add four toes and pay close attention to the coloring of the feet because his toes are white and not all the way brown.


It's always good to go the extra mile by adding paw pads underneath the paws and paw feet. This just gives it an extra "umph" to your four-legged creature cosplay. Only do this if the four-legged creature HAS paw pads.

Now, since he has a little mane, my strong suggestion would be purchase a Cheapy-Spike wig (dark brown) from:

Or at least a Tina Turner-like wig (brown or dark brown, depending on the shade presented best), and style it into the human form Sora hair style with a tutorial. Study how big, long, and what shape the ears are and then sew them onto the sides of the wig after you style the wig.

Whatever cut off wig you have left, then make those the little spiked hair part on his tail. In this case, his tail would be a semi-plush tail, meaning it's not fully plush, but has that little plush feel to it.


For all tails, make sure that you handstitch the tail where you want it on the back. (A little above the butt area is perfect). This is so that you won't have to worry about your tail being on straight while trying to have fun at the con.

As for the Kingdom Hearts Crown necklace, that was bought at a con in 2007. Talk about luck on my part^^ If you can, try to find the necklace already made (now, mine has real chains, so it's got some weight to it), then get that first and see how that works. If you can't find one, then be creative in creating the Kingdom Hearts Crown.


Just a fair warning about this particular cosplay. If you wish to do this cosplay, then may God be with you because this was one of the most challenging cosplays I've ever done. Please go all the way by creating (or purchasing a good quality) Kingdom Keyblade. Here, I created mine from scratch because not only was it a challenge, but also cheaper.

Here was the ending result of my Pride Lands Sora Cosplay:

Alright, I hope this helps you on four-legged creature cosplays. Have fun and Good luck to ya^^

Monday, March 15, 2010

Cosplay Tutorial: How To Make a Cat Set

Alright, I finally have a tutorial for you to go by. Here's a step-by-step tutorial on how to create a cat set. It's one of those things that you either don't feel like cosplaying or maybe something to throw on quick with regular clothes. Either way, it still works, but it's not really cosplaying. Now, the ear part of the instructions are from Hyuuga15 at The only differnce is that I threw in the headband and the felt fabric. Other than that, give Hyuuga15 the credit for the ear part instructions. I even threw in some visual instructions if by any chance that it's hard to understand the typed instuctons. There will be two types of tails in this tutorial. They will be labeled as Tail 1 and Tail 2. If you are doing Tail 1, then look for "Tail 1" beside a particular instructions and if you're doing Tail 2, then look for "Tail 2" beside a particular instuctions. AND A WAY WE GO! ^o^


Regualr Cuddle Fur OR Faux Bunny Fur (any color)
A thin wired headband OR a clear plastic headband (it doesn't matter, as long as it's very unoticable when you put it on)

Hot Glue Gun
Felt Fabric
For Tail 1: Stuffing

For both tails, Ribbon

Step 1:
Cut out 2 medium size triangles on your fur and 2 small triangles on your felt fabric. Make sure that you cut on the opposite sides of the fur and check to see if the fur is on the inside. Remember to have the exact or similar color thread to match your fabrics. VERY IMPORTANT! (Flashback to "The Most 5 Important Keys to Cosplaying" blog. If you haven't looked at the blog, then please do so).

Step 2:
By now, you should have 2 sets of 2 medium size triangles with each having a front and a back from the fur and a set of 2 single small triangles from the felt fabric. So this means that you should have 4 medium size triangels and 2 small triangles. Make sure that the medium size triangles are NOT separated. After you cut them, immediately pin them so they won't become separated.

Now, with the wrong sides showing, sew the medium size triangles, with the zigzag stitch, leaving the bottom side open. Then after you sew the both sets of medium size triangles, take the opening from the bottom and flip them inside out so the fur will be showing.

Step 3:
Now it's time for the small triangles. Hand stitch 1 small triangle to one medium size set and the other small triangle to the other medium size set. It doesn't matter if you straight stitch or over-the-top stitch, just make sure that it looks half way decent so no one will notice to much.

After they are stitched on, now we can call them "cat ears". YAY! ^o^ Okay, here's the thing, I strongly suggest that you tuck the bottom part of the inside of the ears and sew them. DO NOT SEAL THE OPENING!!!!! Just tuck the edges and sew. This will give it a little more professional look. Now after that, take some hot glue and place them on the top of the headband. Be careful of where you place them on top because once the hot glue dries, it'll stay there and won't move. TADA, you've got cat ears.

Visulal Tutorial:

Step 4:
Take your fur and cut long ways on one of the edges. If the tail is too long, you can always adjust it by cutting it shorter.

Tail 1: This is if you have Regular Cuddle Fur. Take the two edges and put them together with the wrong side showing. Pin the side and sew with the zigzag stitch. Once that is stitched, take some twizzers and pull the fur from the inside and keep pulling until the whole tail is right side out with the fur showing. Be patient with this because this is very tidius.

Skip Step 5.

Step 5:
If you're doing Tail 1, then please go on to Step 6.

Tail 2: This is if you have Faux Bunny Fur. Let the wrong side face you and then fold the fur towards you. Before you sew, tuck the edges of the fabric and sew them first. Make sure that one side is overlapping the other side and sew straight down the middle with the zigzag stitch. This will give you a headache, but again, be patient with it.

Step 6:

Tail 1: Next, with this type of tail, once the whole tail is right side out, make sure that one of the ends of it is closed so the stuffing won't fall out. If it's not, then hand stitch one of the ends in the over-the-top stitch to close it. Do this a couple of times for a secure closing. Afterwards, take the stuffing and stuff it inside the tail. Make sure that it's even all the way down so there won't be any lumps. We don't want lumps in the tail.

Both Tail 1 & 2: Now it's time to close the top of the tail. Before you close the top, make sure that the bottom is stitched closed for a professional look. If it's not, then do so now with the over-the-top stitch and do it a couple of times for a secure closing. Now that the bottom is securly closed, do the same thing with the top. Hand stitch with the over-the-top stitch a couple of times for a secure closing. After you close the top of the tail, take your seam ripper and carefully make a hole and go straight across from the first one and create another hole.

Whether you have the same color ribbon or thread that you used will be fine. Just as long as the ribbon or the thread doesn't take the attention away from your hard work. That is the main focus. Now make a loop through the holes and make a half knot a couple of times. DO NOT MAKE A KNOT ALL THE WAY TO THE TAIL!!!!!! You want to make a loop so you can put your belt through it so you can wear your tail. Just remember to snip off the top a little as needed, but not to where your knot is cut off.

Visual Tutorial

Alright, this should help on creating a cat set.

Agian, the purpose of these really is basically if you don't feel like cosplaying, but still want to blend in, if you don't have a cosplay costume with you and these are a quick fix and just create an original character, or you don't have time or money to create a cosplay, but you have leftover fur and materials and can just wear a kimono and call yourself a Furry.

So anyway, I hope you had fun doing this and I hope this helps>^^<